November 17th
I have ordered a few two pole two man tents to deconstruct and prove my concept of transformational travel will work.
I started the week by toiling
some more outer shell tent apparel but turned the tent
upside down so that the tarpolin
was the neck hole. The tarpolin
has an interesting structure but to ensure my collection is extremely lightweight, compact and easy to handle I have decided to use a different fabric within my final collection that is polyester based allowing me to be able to print onto it.
I would also like my tent to be reversible by using
a reversible zip.
I sliced a hole in the tents mosquito netting to allow the head and arms to get through and cut a hole in the tarpolin base for the legs too. I then played around with the shape, hooking fabric in place with guy ropes and components already attached to the tent. It created an extremely bulky form but I didn't want to edit the shape too much as not to jephardise the tents function.
By compiling a simple, understandable step by step guide on how to transform the tent so far makes my shell more believable and commercially viable. In just a few easy steps your jacket can be a tent.
Deconstructing the tent and adding calico sleeves and a hood made it easier to visualise it as a fully functioning garment and how it can actually work.
For the wind shield outer tent I used the same pattern for the inner tent and cut a slit down the front of the tent. I added sleeves and wrapped the light weight calico around the body to achieve my favourite silouhette so far. The difficulty lay in re-achieving this silouhette.
I also used light weight muslin for the inner tent but found it too light weight to work with and unrealistic as the tent is not going to be transluscent. I wanted to try the shell on models of different heights and sizes to see how it would drape on a range of body shapes.
To reduce bulk I decided to cut the base of the tent so that it will be a more functional garment and be easier to work with. The outcome is alot more flattering and sophisticated than before yet it appears to be more of a dress than an outer shell travel garment.
After unpicking all of the seams
and making up the pattern pieces
in heavyweight and lightweight
calico to see how the fabric falls,
I decided that I would pull the
two tent poles together to
decrease bulk in fabric when
constructing the tent into a
couple of garments. Although it looks alot more like a fully functioning garment it is also really long and bulky. Tents are not made out of heavy weight or light weight calico, more of a light weight ripstop.
I started working on my jumpsuit toile this week and my main function was something that was stylish and comfortable for long journeys, but easy to remove when you need the toilet. The idea is that the entrance and exit point is the slit at the back and how in theory you would be able to pull the elasticated waistband down at the back when you needed the toilet. It doesn't completely work as when you pull the back down it chokes you on the neck. I am not really happy with the aesthetic yet either.
After my tutorial I decided that my original jumpsuit toile wasn't flattering and sophisticated enough for my client. I looked at 40s jumpsuits for inspiration and with that in mind I got to work draping jersey over the mannequin to create my final jumpsuit. It still has easy access when you need the toilet and is still super comfortable but it's aesthetic is so much more sophisticated hitting my target market.
Whilst participating in Hay Festival Fashion Lab I deconstructed some Nike running leggings and added these unique seams which I now really like. They are a bit baggier so you are less likely to sweat. When running the seams move too creating a draught which may cool you down a bt more too. However, after deconstructing these leggings and trying to reassemble them I have had alot of difficulty.
Although I liked my first toile lycra shorts to wear in water whilst swimming etc, I felt like their tight fit would deter my customer from wearing them out of water. Due to them being figure hugging too it may offend certain cultures and religions depending on where you travel, so I decided a looser fitting toile would be more suited. I added the seam at the side as a flattering aesthetic. My favourite playsuit I wore travelling was of similar loose aesthetic and I found it to be cooling in the heat.
For an alternative more modest design of the tight fitting lycra swim shorts I decided kneelength would be more appropriate for travel as it's not too revealing so respects cultures from all over the word more, and prevents sun burn too. The seams sculpt the body and add more of a pleasing aesthetic. The leggings would be overlocked and tape seamed for a clean finish. To make these I drew in tailors chalk on to a pair of black leggings where I want my style lines to go, cut them up, traced around the pattern pieces then re-made them in lycra.
For my swimming costume I got heavily inspired by my land project in second year where I didn'tlike my final piece so twisted it n the mannequin and changed the shape. I did the same thing with this costume to get the unusual twist at the front. The high neckline was a feature to enable you to go surfing and get bashed around whilst keeping your dignity in tact, which is a problem I have encountered whilst surfing in warmer climates. I am still contemplating whether I should make the sports bra and swimsuit collaborate more and have the same back on the swimsuit.
This is my final line up as it stands right now (christmas holidays). I like the asymmetric single sleeve outer tent piece however, it's impractical as you would have one cold arm and one warm. I also think the hood on the inner tent looks like it's referencing religion which could be seen as offensive so I shall get rid of the hood. Outfit number one looks good but is it too skin tight? And my jumpsuit just isn't very flattering.
November 24th
November 31st
January 4th
January 11th
To create a backpack that transforms in to a sleeping bag I decided the best way was to buy a cheap 40 litre backpack and deconstruct it for the basic pattern ideas. Although this worked well with the straps I kind of guess the actual shape as mine needed to function as a sleeping bag too. I decided to add a zip on the side and an open pocket on the inside for the sleeping bag to fit in. This also meant that when the sleeping bag was out of the zip and pocket, the pocket is free so you can pad it out with clothes etc as extra pillow support if the wadding on the back just isn't enough. I added the tent pole casing last as an extra to coincide with the tent. I have altered the pattern pieces of the sleeping bag so that the actual rucksack will be 20cm longer and 5cm wider for better fit.
December 11th
My pre collection jumper I designed was too simple so I decided to follow the trend that has worked with me throughout and modelled it on the stand. I draped what left over jersey I had from the jumpsuit on to the mannequin in unique ways with differing grainline directions and came up with this. Although the arm length could be longer, overall I am happy with the unique outcome.
After compiling all of my final toiles I had trouble deciding what garment should go with what. In a way I liked mixing things up proving that they will all work as a mix and match modular travel collection.
This is my final toile line up. My tent is reconstructed in ripstop poly nylon so it is really lightweight and waterproof, my shorts are looser so that they compliment the figure better. My outer shell jacket is simple yet reversible, one side will reflect the heat and the other side will obtain the heat. It is a cover up for when the tent is up and was inspired by my final piece for the outdoot project last year.
January 18th
These are my final toile undergarments which I am happy with but I also think that because so much time was spent working on my tent I jephardised some design features I could have added. I want to see what the tutors think in my toile line up to go forwards. However, these garments are ideal for a modular travel collection with different lengths and durability.